Wild Island Life

Seeing rare animals and birds up close in their native habitat is just one of the many reasons to take an expedition cruise in the Galapagos Islands, writes Sally Macmillan.

Feb/March 2015, Horizons (RAC WA magazine)

Flying into Santiago over the snow-capped Andes is a spectacular introduction to South America for a first-timer like me. We left Sydney at dawn for our flights to Ecuador’s major port city of Guayaquil, and by the time we checked into the Hilton we’d lost count of the hours spent getting there. But we knew we were in for a very special experience – it was just a 90-minute flight the next morning to the island of Baltra, where we were set to board Lindblad’s National Geographic Endeavour for a seven-day wildlife expedition.

Our welcome aboard National Geographic Endeavour, a traditional expedition vessel that has been plying the world’s oceans for 48 years and is fitted out with state-of-the-art exploration equipment, could not have been friendlier. The ship is crewed by Ecuadorians who know the islands intimately and are expert naturalists and photographers. With a capacity of 96 passengers, it’s one of the largest ships to sail in the region.

From the moment the ship’s Zodiacs (motorised dinghys) pick us up at the jetty the wildlife sightings begin – sea lions are lolling around the landing stage, looking as though they are resting up after a big night.

Once we’re aboard we check in to our cabins; mine has twin beds, two windows, ensuite bathroom and plenty of storage space. I love the fact there’s a big, hardback National Geographic atlas by the desk, and it takes me a while to realise there is no TV – over the coming days I didn’t miss it once. There aren’t any locks on the doors, either; initially it feels a little strange leaving the laptop and devices on the desk when going out but the trust system enhances the community atmosphere on the ship.

After all the passengers and crew meet for a briefing and a hearty lunch we set off for our first port of call, Las Bachas on Santa Cruz island. On the white-sand beach we see some of the Galapagos Islands’ most famous native creatures, marine iguana and neon pink-and-orange Sally Lightfoot crabs; beyond the shoreline a rare pink flamingo paddles photogenically in a shallow pool and flocks of frigate birds fly overhead.

Swimming within touching distance of sea turtles, penguins and sea lions, spotting stingrays, white-tipped sharks and innumerable exotic tropical fish is simply mind-blowing. The water temperature is between 22 and  24 degrees Celsius mid-year; shortie wetsuits are supplied by  the ship and not only keep you warm but increase your buoyancy and give some protection from jellyfish stings.

Kayaks and glass-bottomed boats are launched as well as Zodiacs full of eager snorkellers; however, our naturalists tell us kayaking is restricted to certain areas because the “visual pollution” of the bright-orange vessels can disturb some birds and animals.

Hiking and photographic tours around the islands are also offered daily. The islands are volcanic and range in age from 4 million years to a few hundred thousand years old, so each one is home to distinctive flora and fauna. Isabela is the biggest island and on day four of our trip we make a wet landing at Urbina Bay, where during the 1954 earthquake, 1.5 square kilometres of marine reef was thrown up to four metres higher than before.

Not far inland we see our first giant Galapagos tortoise, which, according to our naturalist guide Greg, is about 60 years old. These majestic creatures live up to 100 years old (the oldest on record was 152 when he died), can be 1.5 metres long and weigh up to 250 kilograms. You can learn more about them and the efforts being made to breed and re-populate their native habitats at the Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz Island, but nothing beats seeing them in the bush, gently munching grass and leaves, and basking in the sun.

The Galapagos Islands are also an ornithologist’s dream. Apart from the famed Darwin finches (which are relatively difficult to see), you’ll see blue-footed boobies, red-footed boobies, frigate birds (the males have the big red chests), flightless cormorants, albatrosses and dozens of other bird species. Like the islands’ reptiles and mammals, the birds have no inbuilt fear of humans, so you can observe and photograph them just a couple of feet away from you.

Every evening before dinner everyone gathers in the lounge for a drink and recap of the day’s sightings and activities, and a briefing for the next day. The National Geographic photographers hold photo workshops for passengers who range from near-professional enthusiasts to amateur point-and-shooters, and everyone learns something. Which is what this expedition is all about – a thoroughly enjoyable, uplifting and educational travel experience.

Sally Macmillan travelled as a  guest of Lindblad Expeditions. 

FAST FACTS

Where are they?
The Galapagos Islands make up an archipelago of 19 main islands north and south of the Equator in the Pacific Ocean. They are about 1600 kilometres west of the Ecuadorian mainland and are a province of Ecuador, as well as being a national park and marine reserve. It is the most important marine reserve in Ecuador and the second-largest in the world, covering about 133,000 square kilometres. The population is about 25,000 and most people live on the Santa Cruz, San Cristobal and Isabela islands.

When to go
Ships operate in the Galapagos year round, although ship and visitor numbers are strictly limited by the local Marine Reserve authorities in order to conserve the marine ecosystem.

The peak season for visitors is during the Christmas holidays. January to June is the warm, wetter season  and from June to December temperatures are slightly lower.

Sea temperatures influence the activities of marine wildlife; for example, in June-July a cold-water current brings plankton, which attracts fish and birds such as penguins and albatrosses.

What to take
• Take lightweight essentials for swimming, snorkelling and walking.
• When swimming in the cooler months (June to December) a flexible, ultralight (1mm to 2mm) wetsuit is recommended for wearing underneath the ship-supplied wetsuits.
• Sturdy walking shoes for island hikes and water-friendly sandals, for wet landings, are essential. 
• High-SPF sunscreen, insect repellent and antihistamine cream for stings.
• A small waterproof backpack (and lots of Ziploc bags) for your camera equipment, a waterproof camera as well as your regular camera/s, and extra memory cards. 

Before you go
You don’t need a visa but your passport must have at least six months’ validity from your planned date of return to Australia. Check cruise-specific travel insurance policies that cover eventualities some regular travel insurance policies do not.

How to get there
There are no direct flights to South America from Perth, with most options requiring either a domestic stop or a stop in Auckland, or both. LAN Airlines operates seven one-stop flights each week from Sydney to Santiago, Chile, with onward connections to Quito or Guayaquil for the Galapagos Islands and Punta Arenas, Chile, for Patagonia. LAN also offers non-stop flights between Sydney and Santiago every Monday, Wednesday and Saturday in a codeshare partnership with Qantas.

Bring home
While you don’t visit the Galapagos Islands to go shopping, you can help support the local economy by buying some Ecuadorian coffee and chocolate, or locally made wood carvings and ceramics.

Or you can support wildlife conservancy by symbolically adopting a sea lion, marine iguana or giant tortoise: from $30, see galapagos.org.

Don’t miss
Snorkelling and swimming with sea turtles, rays, penguins and thousands of tropical fish.

EXPERIENCE PATAGONIA

Patagonia is a vast region at the southern tip of South America that is shared by Chile and Argentina. It sits between the Pacific Ocean on its western side and the Atlantic on the east coast. The famous (or infamous) Cape Horn is in the Tierra del Fuego archipelago to the south-west and belongs to Chile and Argentina, while Ushuaia, the capital of Tierra del Fuego, is the departure point for Antarctic expeditions.

There are so many diverse natural wonders in this wild, remote area that if time is limited, you’ll have to decide which attractions you want to focus on. Will it be hiking in the world-renowned Parque Nacional Torres del Paine (below), ice-trekking in Los Glaciares National Park, or staying on a traditional estancia (ranch) in the wide-open steppes?

Adventurous cruisers  can cover a lot of ground (and ocean) by sea. Lindblad operates a 15-day Patagonian expedition on National Geographic Explorer. It departs from Buenos Aires (a two-hour flight from Santiago) and sails down the East Coast, around Cape Horn and through the Chilean fjords.